About 65 kilometers south of Mexico City, at an elevation of 3,000 meters in the mountains between the capital and Cuernavaca, a cluster of volcanic lakes sits inside a national park that most visitors to Mexico have never heard of. Lagunas de Zempoala is the kind of place that locals know about and tourists don’t, which makes it one of the better-kept secrets within day-trip distance of the capital.
The park contains several mountain lakes surrounded by pine and fir forests, hiking trails that range from easy lakeside walks to serious mountain climbs, and an atmosphere of quiet that feels almost impossible given that the biggest city in North America is just over the ridge.
The Lakes
The name Zempoala comes from Nahuatl and means “twenty” — supposedly referring to the number of lakes in the area, though the actual count varies depending on the season and how generously you define “lake.” The main lakes that are accessible and worth visiting include:
Laguna de Zempoala
The largest and most accessible lake, Zempoala is the first one you’ll reach from the park entrance. It sits in a volcanic crater at about 2,800 meters, surrounded by dense pine forest. The water is cold and clear, with a dark surface that reflects the surrounding trees and sky in a way that photographs well but looks even better in person.
A walking trail circles the lake — about 3 kilometers, mostly flat, manageable for anyone reasonably mobile. Trout fishing is permitted with a license, and the lake is stocked regularly. On weekday mornings, you might see no one else on the trail. Weekends bring families from both Mexico City and Cuernavaca, but even then it doesn’t get truly crowded.
Laguna de Quila
Smaller and slightly more remote than the main lake, Quila requires a short hike from the road and rewards the effort with a quieter, more intimate setting. The forest around it is thicker, the trail less maintained, and the overall feeling more wild. This is our pick if you want solitude.
Laguna Tonatiahua and Others
Several smaller lakes and seasonal ponds are scattered through the park, accessible via trails of varying quality. Some require proper hiking shoes and a sense of direction. The park doesn’t have the trail signage you’d find in a U.S. national park, so carrying a downloaded map or GPS track is wise if you’re venturing beyond the main lake.
Hiking
The park offers a range of hiking options. The lake circuit trails are easy and suitable for casual walkers. Beyond them, trails climb into the surrounding mountains, including routes that reach above 3,500 meters with panoramic views of the volcanic peaks and, on clear days, views back toward the Valley of Mexico.
The altitude is the main challenge. At 3,000 meters and above, the air is thin enough that you’ll notice it if you’re not acclimatized. Even if you’ve adjusted to Mexico City’s 2,240 meters, the additional 800 meters of elevation at Zempoala makes a difference. Take it slow, drink water, and don’t underestimate the mountains.
The forests are primarily oyamel fir and Montezuma pine — the same species that the monarch butterflies use for their winter habitat further west in Michoacan. The understory is green and mossy, especially during and just after the rainy season (June through October), when the park is at its most lush. Wildflowers are abundant in summer and early fall.
Birding is decent, with species adapted to the high-altitude forest environment. You won’t see the tropical birds of the lowlands, but mountain wrens, hummingbirds, and raptors are present.
Practical Information
Entry and Fees
The national park charges a modest entry fee, typically around 50 pesos per person. Parking is available near the main lake. The park is officially open during daylight hours, and there’s a small ranger station near the entrance where you can get basic information.
Facilities
Limited. There are some picnic areas with tables near the main lake, basic restrooms, and a few food vendors on weekends who sell snacks and hot drinks. Don’t count on being able to buy supplies in the park — bring everything you need, including water, food, sun protection, and a warm layer. The temperature at 3,000 meters can drop significantly, especially in shade and if wind picks up.
Camping is possible in designated areas, though facilities are basic. If you’re planning to camp, bring everything and be prepared for cold nights at altitude.
Best Time to Visit
The dry season (November through April) offers the most reliable weather and the clearest skies. Mornings are the best time of day — clear and still, with the lakes at their most reflective. By early afternoon in the rainy season, clouds typically roll in and rain is likely.
The rainy season transforms the landscape into something much greener and more dramatic, with mist hanging in the trees and the forest floor covered in moss and ferns. If you don’t mind getting wet, it’s arguably the most beautiful time to visit, but trails can be muddy and slippery.
Winter months (December through February) can bring frost and occasionally light snow at the highest elevations. The cold adds another dimension to the experience but requires proper clothing.
Getting There
From Mexico City, take the toll highway toward Cuernavaca (Highway 95D) south. About 50 kilometers from the city, exit at the Tres Marias junction and take the road west toward Huitzilac and Lagunas de Zempoala. The park is about 15 kilometers from the highway on a paved but winding mountain road. Total driving time from central Mexico City is about 1.5 to 2 hours.
Public transport is difficult. Buses run to Huitzilac from the Taxquena terminal, but the last stretch to the lakes requires a taxi or hitchhiking. A car is strongly recommended.
The park combines well with a visit to Cuernavaca on the way back — the highway drops south from Tres Marias into the city. Morning at the lakes, afternoon in Cuernavaca, makes for a full and varied day.
For more excursions from the capital, see our surroundings guide.
Why We Recommend It
Mexico City day trips tend to be about history, culture, and food — all excellent reasons to travel, but they keep you in towns and buildings. Zempoala is the antidote. It’s mountains, forests, lakes, and silence. The fact that it’s barely an hour from a city of 22 million people makes the quiet feel almost surreal.
You won’t learn anything about Mexican history here. You won’t eat a life-changing meal. What you’ll do is walk through a forest at 3,000 meters, sit by a volcanic lake so still it looks like glass, and breathe air that smells like pine needles instead of diesel. After a few days in the city, that’s not a luxury. It’s a necessity.